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Retinol for beginners: how to start without irritation

Skincare & beauty Published Reviewed

Written by the Priceline Pharmacy Pacific Fair team. Reviewed by Jason Markey, BPharmSci, MPharm, Owner and Pharmacist.

General health information from a registered pharmacist. It doesn’t replace advice from your own pharmacist or doctor.

Start low and slow. Use a gentle retinol at night, on clean, dry skin, two or three nights a week to begin with, and follow with a moisturiser. Build up only as your skin settles, wear sunscreen every morning, and be patient: DermNet notes topical retinoids can take 12 weeks or longer to show results.

The aim in the first few weeks isn’t speed, it’s getting your skin used to it. And if you’re pregnant, trying for a baby or breastfeeding, check with your GP or pharmacist before using any retinoid product.

Retinol, retinal or prescription retinoid: what’s the difference?

Retinoids are a family of vitamin A ingredients. DermNet explains that some, such as retinol and retinaldehyde (often shortened to retinal), are commonly added to cosmetics, while others are prescription medicines used for acne and other skin conditions.

TypeWhere you get itGood to know
RetinolSkincare and beauty countersWidely available in serums and night creams. Strengths vary between products
Retinal (retinaldehyde)Skincare and beauty countersAnother vitamin A form used in cosmetics
Prescription retinoidsA GP or dermatologistMedicines for acne and other conditions. Some aren’t suitable in pregnancy

What can retinol do? DermNet notes that retinoid creams used regularly over the long term may reduce fine wrinkles and even out pigmentation. At cosmetic strengths, retinol may help improve the appearance of fine lines and uneven skin tone. It won’t work overnight, and it’s not a substitute for sun protection.

How do you start using retinol?

  1. Patch test first. Apply a little to a small area, such as along your jawline, for a few nights and watch for redness or itching.
  2. Use it at night. DermNet says retinoids are applied at bedtime, and notes they can make skin more sensitive to the sun.
  3. Cleanse, then let your skin dry completely.
  4. Use a pea-sized amount for your whole face. Dot it on your forehead, cheeks and chin, then spread it thinly. DermNet notes retinoids can be irritating close to the eyes or lips, so keep clear of them and the creases beside your nose.
  5. Start with two or three nights a week. If your skin stays comfortable for a couple of weeks, add another night.
  6. Moisturise afterwards. If your skin is dry or sensitive, try a “sandwich”: a thin layer of moisturiser, then your retinol, then more moisturiser.
  7. Wear sunscreen every morning (see below).
  8. Be patient. Take a photo when you start, so you can compare after three months.

Why daily sunscreen matters even more

DermNet notes topical retinoids can cause photosensitivity, and recommends regular daytime use of a sunscreen and moisturiser to protect against sun sensitivity and dryness. On the Gold Coast you need it anyway: Cancer Council Queensland says UV reaches 3 or above every day in Queensland, even on cloudy and cool days.

Every morning, apply an SPF50 or SPF50+ broad-spectrum sunscreen to your face, neck and ears. Reapply every two hours when you’re outdoors, and after swimming, sweating or towelling, and add a hat and shade for longer outdoor time. If evening out your skin tone is part of your goal, sun protection matters even more. Our guide to pigmentation and melasma explains why.

How to store retinol

  • Keep the lid on tightly and follow the storage directions on the pack.
  • Store it somewhere cool and out of direct sunlight, not in a hot car or on a sunny windowsill.
  • Check the expiry date, and the “period after opening” symbol (an open jar with a number, such as 6M or 12M) if your product has one.
  • If the colour, smell or texture changes, replace it.

Irritation or purging: what’s normal?

Some adjustment is common. DermNet describes retinoid dermatitis as redness, peeling and dry skin, and lists irritant contact dermatitis among the side effects (allergic reactions are rare). Because retinoids are drying, DermNet also notes they can make eczema worse.

What you noticeWhat to do
Mild dryness, light flaking or slight pinknessDrop back a night or two each week and moisturise more
Stinging, burning, raw or swollen skinStop using it and talk to a pharmacist
An itchy rash, especially one spreading beyond where you applied itStop and see a pharmacist or GP, as it could be an allergic reaction
New breakoutsKeep the rest of your routine simple, and ask us if they don’t settle

You’ll often hear the word “purging” for a crop of pimples when someone starts a new active ingredient. Don’t let it become a reason to push through discomfort. Red, stinging, flaky or burning skin is irritation, and the answer is to cut back. If your skin feels tight and dry, our dry skin checklist has tips on choosing a moisturiser.

What shouldn’t you mix with retinol at first?

While your skin gets used to retinol, keep everything else gentle.

  • Exfoliating acids. DermNet notes that alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), such as glycolic and lactic acid, can be alternated with retinoid creams. For salicylic acid, a beta hydroxy acid (BHA), DermNet’s advice is not to combine it with topical retinoids unless a doctor directs. So use acids on different nights from your retinol, or pause them for your first few weeks.
  • Scrubs and peeling products. Skip them on retinol nights.
  • Other retinoid products. Use one at a time.
  • Acne treatments. If you already use pharmacy acne products or a prescription cream, ask your pharmacist or GP before adding retinol. Our guide to acne treatment at the pharmacy explains the options.
  • Vitamin C. Keep it separate while you’re starting out. One simple option is vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night.
  • Salon treatments. Tell your beauty therapist you’re using retinol before facial waxing, peels or other treatments.

Our guide to skincare routine order shows where retinol fits in a full morning and night routine.

Can you use retinol when pregnant or breastfeeding?

DermNet says some topical retinoids must not be used in pregnancy, and that women of childbearing age using them need effective contraception, because retinoids can harm an unborn baby. If you’re pregnant or trying to conceive, talk to your GP or pharmacist before using any retinoid product, including cosmetic retinol.

When breastfeeding, DermNet describes topical retinoids as probably low risk, as long as they don’t come into direct contact with your baby’s skin. Check with your GP or pharmacist first.

How can our team help?

Our beauty advisors can help you choose a gentle retinol to start with, plus a moisturiser and sunscreen to go with it, through our skincare advice in store. Our pharmacists can help if you use acne treatments or prescription creams, have a skin condition, or are pregnant or breastfeeding. You can also browse the facial skincare range on priceline.com.au or ask us at Pacific Fair.

When to see a pharmacist or GP

  • You have burning, swelling, blistering or a spreading rash after using retinol.
  • Irritation doesn’t settle after you stop using it.
  • You have eczema, rosacea or very sensitive skin and want to try retinol.
  • Your acne is painful, leaving marks or scars, or not improving. A GP can talk to you about prescription options, and our in-store Help Medical GPs are one option.
  • You’re pregnant, trying to conceive or breastfeeding.

Sources

This article is general information only and isn’t a substitute for personal advice from your doctor or pharmacist. Always read the label and follow the directions for use. If symptoms persist or you’re worried, talk to your pharmacist or GP. In an emergency, call 000.

Talk to our pharmacists at Pacific Fair

Pop in, no appointment needed. We’re on the ground floor of Pacific Fair Shopping Centre, Broadbeach, open 7 days and until 9pm on Thursdays.